While ‘skin cycling’ has flooded the TikTok world as a hot, new self care practice, the method of applying skincare products with routine rest periods has been recommended by dermatologists and estheticians for decades. Skin-cycling suggests the alternating use of active ingredients over a four day cycle. During the pandemic, Dr. Whitney Bowe (who coined the term) noticed her patients taking an increased interest in skin-care without understanding the importance of proper layering. Rather than thinking about how the ingredients of each product would interact with the others, people were overloading their routines by continuously adding one thing on top of another. “There’s been so much confusion surrounding how to layer active ingredients. … Particularly on social media, the answers are all over the place and we are seeing angry, irritated skin as a result,” says Dr. Bowe.
“The classic skin cycling regimen is a four-night cycle — the first is the exfoliation night, the second is a retinoid night, and the third and fourth are recovery nights, then you repeat the cycle,” explains Bowe.
Night One: Exfoliant
On this evening, begin by cleansing and patting your skin dry. The next step involves exfoliation, removing dead skin cells from the surface layer, as recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). This initial process is essential because it allows your subsequent skincare products to penetrate more deeply into the skin in a controlled and predictable manner, enhancing their effectiveness, as explained by Bowe. Following exfoliation, it’s time to moisturize. However, exercise caution – improper exfoliation, such as doing it too frequently, may result in redness and irritation, as cautioned by the AAD.
Night Two: Retinol
This night revolves around retinoids, vitamin A derivatives known for reducing fine lines and wrinkles, as highlighted by Harvard Health Publishing. This category includes prescription medications such as tretinoin and milder, over-the-counter options like retinol. According to Bowe, retinoids are a potent addition to your skin cycling routine. However, she emphasizes a crucial disclaimer: “They can be very irritating when first introduced, especially for those with sensitive, reactive skin.” Before application, ensure you cleanse and pat your skin dry. If you’re particularly sensitive to retinoids, consider moisturizing sensitive areas, like under your eyes and in the corners of your nose, before applying the retinoid. Should your skin still feel dry afterward, you can reapply moisturizer over the retinoid.
Night Three & Four: Recovery
The recovery period, typically occurring on nights three and four, marks the final phase. According to Bowe, during these nights, refrain from using exfoliating acids and retinoids to allow your skin to recover. Emphasizing the importance of nourishing your skin microbiome and repairing the skin barrier, she recommends focusing on hydration and moisture while avoiding any irritating ingredients. Prior to applying moisturizer, cleanse your skin, and on these recovery nights, there’s no need to pat dry – leaving your skin slightly damp is perfectly acceptable, notes Bowe. Additionally, she suggests incorporating a hydrating serum before applying moisturizer for added benefits.
Tips for Skin Cycling
- Take your time by adding and subtracting products into your routine one by one. That way, if you do have a negative reaction to something, you’ll have an easier time pinpointing it and adjusting accordingly..
- When applying your retinol, spread a pea size amount over your face, a pea size amount on your neck, and two pea sizes on your chest.
- Dr. Bowe suggests chemical exfoliants, which she says are more gentle than physical scrubs.
- Keep in mind that your cycle timing can be personalized based upon your skin’s needs. “If you are experiencing sensitivity and irritation, you can increase your recovery nights,” says Bowe. “Or, if you are seasoned and well adjusted to your retinoid and want to dial up, you can omit one recovery night for a three-night cycle.”
- Consistency. Consistency. Consistency!
